At Chanel, happiness is in the meadow.

Once again, Chanel Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld reclaimed Paris’ extravagant Grand Palais as the backdrop to present his 2010 spring-summer pret-a-porter collection. Despite the presence of celebrities like Prince and Lily Allen (Lagerfeld’s latest muse), the true star of the runway this season was Wheat.

Lily Allen performing.

Prince

Symbol of prosperity, bounty and fertility (not to mention a French idiom for money), wheat has always been a source of inspiration. Initially associated with the farming, peasant class, wheat was oft embraced by artists and designers alike and Coco Chanel was no exception. The unassuming sheaf of wheat became her personal lucky charm, symbolizing “creativity that never ends”, and she used it frequently in both her clothing designs and her home decor.

"Les Glaneuses" (The Gleaners), by Jean-Francois Millet. 1857

In Mademoiselle Chanel’s Paris apartment, rue Cambon, the fetish sheaf can be found in numerous places: a brass bouquet, a gold-leafed adornment for a fireplace mantle, a magnificent Regency style table with a gilded wheat table footer and glass top, or a simple ear of wheat painted specially by Dali for Gabrielle (Coco's real name).

Gabrielle Chanel in her apartment rue Cambon.

Brass wheat bouquet in Coco Chanel's apartment.

French gold-leafed tole wheat sheaf chandelier. Circa 1930.

Petite gold leafed tole wheat sheaf chandelier. Circa 1930.

Chandelier detail.

At the show in the Grand Palais, a pastoral atmosphere imbues the place. On a wheat covered floor, Lagerfeld nymphs scroll at a leisurely pace. The “gleaners” swap their wooden shoes for Chanel’s "5’ O' Clog" mules in leather or canvas – definite must-haves for spring this year.

The Barn.

Chanel's "5 O' Clog" mules.

There was a subtle mix of materials - linen and jute coexisting with crepe and mousseline. Transparent mousseline blouses were playfully embroidered with ears of wheat while jackets in tweed and pantsuits were garnished with gilded wheat embroidery. Accessories were also adorned with wheat motifs - hand bags, bracelets, hair clips, even glass frames. Finally, a nod to Mademoiselle’s poppy collection (introduced in the 30’s), with red and blue poppy embroidered dresses ending the show to resounding applause.

Sunglasses from the Chanel Spring/Summer collection 2010.

Lily Allen with a wheat hair clip from the Chanel Spring/Summer collection 2010.

The Poppy collection.

Once again, master Karl Lagerfeld orchestrated the event with a confidant yet delicate hand. Spring looks like the countryside this year at Chanel. Summer will be sweet and blossoming under a sign of softness, prosperity and shafts of wheat...

Karl Lagerfeld